Guide to Shkodër in North Albania – Gate to the Albanian Alps

If you’re looking for a destination that’s off the beaten track but still worth a visit, then Shkoder is your answer. Nestled between the Albanian Alps and Lake Skadar, this charming town offers stunning natural beauty and a rich cultural heritage.

Geographically, Shkoder is located in northwestern Albania near the border with Montenegro. It is easily accessible by car or bus from Tirana (the capital of Albania) or Podgorica (the capital of Montenegro). The town itself is compact and easy to explore on foot.

I found Shkoder charming, affordable and a great gateway for excursions to the Albanian Alps or Lake Komani. It’s also a great base for relaxing before or after a hike in the Theth National Park. There’s a lively café and bar scene in the old town that you definitely shouldn’t miss. You’ll also find great sandy beaches near Shkoder. So it’s worth spending a day or two seeing the sights in this laid-back little town.

In this article, I will show you the best sights, beaches and excursions not to be missed in the city and its surroundings.

Things to do in Shkoder

Shkoder is rich in cultural and architectural sights. The most important is clearly Rozafa Castle – a large fortress that towers over the city. Under the castle you can find the old lead mosque. The old town os Shkoder is home to a Catholic cathedral, the central mosque and a charming, lively pedestrian zone.

Rozafa Castle

Probably the most famous attraction in Shkodër is Rozafa Castle, a massive fortress that watches over the city. It stands on a steep, rocky hill. Although you can also reach the castle on foot, the walk there is a bit strenuous. You can park your car near the castle for 200 leke (€ 2). Admission costs 400 Leke (€ 4) per adult. It is free for children. Another option I recommend is to rent a bike and to visit the castle while you have your bike with you.

The foundations of Rozafa Castle date back to ancient times. The mountain was already inhabited by the Illyrians. The Romans later conquered the castle. In the Middle Ages, Rozafa Castle was owned by the Venetians. They built most of the walls that still stand today. From the 15th century, the fortress was under Ottoman rule. The different eras have left their mark on the architecture of the fortifications.

Rozafa Castle consists of several courtyards. The first can be reached via a gate that was built during the Venetian period. In the second, larger courtyard, you will find the ruins of several storerooms, cisterns and a prison. The 15th-century Fatih Sultan Mehmet Mosque, which was built on the remains of the 13th-century St. Stephen’s Church, is also located here.

The third courtyard is also called the citadel and was built on the highest point of the hill. The former Venetian buildings now house a museum, a café and a gift store.

Tip: You can even discover a secret exit from the castle in the last courtyard.

Rozafa Castle is one of the most impressive castles I have seen in Albania. Due to its location on a hill, I could see for miles in all directions. The view of Shkoder, the river, the farmland, the Albanian Alps and Lake Shkodër is breathtaking. On a clear day, you can even see as far as Montenegro.

Lead mosque

The Lead Mosque (Xhamia e Plumbit in Albanian) is a historic mosque from the 18th century in Shkoder. It is located right under the castle in a side street.

It got its name from its domes, which were covered with lead. The mosque has a turbulent history. It was damaged during the floods in the 19th century, the lead from the domes was stolen, lightning struck the minaret, and it was declared a cultural monument under the communist regime. The mosque has only been allowed to be used for religious purposes again since the 1990s.

A short visit to the mosque is free of charge. You can visit the inner courtyard, but be considerate and wear appropriate clothing! The interior of the mosque is kept very simple.

Explore the Cathedral of Shkoder

St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Katedralja e Shën Shtjefnit in Albanian) is a Roman Catholic cathedral. The building with the 50-meter-high tower was built in the 19th century. The church was built in place of the church that used to be in Rozafa Castle, but was converted into a mosque.

Ebu Bekr Mosque Shkoder

The Ebu Bekr Mosque is a beautiful mosque in Albania. It is located right next to the pedestrian zone and therefore cannot be overlooked.

Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter. So if you are not Muslim, you can only photograph the mosque from the outside.

Wander around the Old town of Shkoder

In the heart of Shkoder, there is an approximately 1 km long pedestrian zone. It is beautifully renovated and nicely designed. The promenade begins at Rruga Kole Idromeno and continues via Rruga 28 Nëntori to the end of Rruga 13 Dhjetori. Make sure you visit that area.

Here you will find everything you need: culture, food and local life. During the day, the city center is still a little sleepy, but in the evening it wakes up. The streets are suddenly full of people when all the locals come out for a stroll (or Xhiro as they say in Albanian). Music can be heard everywhere, and the terraces of the cafés and restaurants fill up with guests. There is a hustle and bustle. Locals enjoy the pleasant temperatures after the midday heat, tourists stroll through the pedestrian zone and soak up the Mediterranean flair – and you can be part of it. Families play with their children in the squares.

It’s best to visit the pedestrian zone (at least) twice. Once during the day and once in the evening. Both times of day have their magic.

Tip: The Pasticeri Flo bar is a particularly beautiful building. It reminded us of the often photographed house in New Orleans. (We don’t necessarily recommend the bar itself. We didn’t have any good experiences with it).

Marubi Museum of Photography Shkoder

Marubi National Museum of Photography is the only photography museum in Albania, located conveniently on the pedestrian Rruga Kolë Idromeno in the center. Its origins date back to the mid-19th century when the Italian artist Pietro Marubbi founded the ‘Photo-Studio Marubbi’ in Shkoder which was later led by three generations of the Marubbi family.

Today the museum, located in a nice historical building, shows a great collection of photos showing the development of Shkoder and Albania in the past two centuries. Even if you are not much into photography it’s worth visiting the place to see those historical images and what life used to be like in the area. Besides the photographs, you can also see here old cameras or the photo darkroom, as well as the temporary exhibitions.

Opening Hours: Tue-Sun 10:00 – 16:00 hrs

Admission: Adults 700 Leke, Children undere 12 free

Mesi Bridge

Ura e Mesit is a relic from the Ottoman era and is located 9 km north-east of Shkoder. The bridge dates back to the 18th century. It spans the river Kir, and prides itself on being the oldest Ottoman bridge in Albania.

Ura e Mesit is 108 meters long and consists of 13 arches. In summer, the river may dry up. So if you want to see and photograph the bridge with the turquoise water below, don’t come during the hot months.

Beaches near Shkoder

The beaches near Shkoder are all sandy. They are virtually an extension of the 13 km long Velika Plaza in Montenegro. The sand is dark, almost black and very fine. A paradise for children who like to dig. The beaches are very long and offer plenty of space for sun loungers. The beaches are a little different from the beaches in southern Albania. They are not as fancy and are much more family-friendly than Ksamil Beach, for example. Mostly families with small children and the older generation visit these parts of the coast, so the atmosphere is much quieter than on the southern beaches.

As Shkoder is closer to Kosovo, many visitors come from this country. You will find everything you need for a day at the beach here on the frequented beaches. The prices are also cheaper than in Saranda and Ksamil.

Shëngjin Beach

Plazhi i Shëngjinit is the long, narrow town beach of Shëngjin. The shallow water, tiny waves and sand make it the perfect family beach.

There are parking lots, hotels, restaurants and bars right on the beach.

Velipoja Beach

Plazhi i Velipojës is the northernmost beach in Albania. It has the same characteristics as Velika Plaza in Montenegro: the dark sand is slightly radioactive and has a healing effect on the body, mainly on the musculoskeletal system. Many people therefore have themselves completely buried in the sand.

Velipoja Beach has a unique retro atmosphere. Although the beach attracts many bathers, it is still pleasant and not lively. Families and older vacationers tend to visit the beach. There is no party atmosphere, but instead grilled corn from the wheelbarrow, petulla (deep-fried dumplings) from the small stall and old-fashioned swimwear. It’s like a little trip back in time here: we felt like we were at Lake Balaton in the 80s and 90s.

Near Velipoja Beach you will find many parking lots and inexpensive stores. There are restaurants and bars on the beach where you can enjoy a bite to eat.

Rana e Hedhun

Rana e Hedhun is still considered a little insider tip in Albania and is located between Velipoja and Shëngjin Beach. It is a beautiful, 50-metre-high sand dune right by the sea.

Winds have carried the sand here over the years, creating the sand dune. Climbing it is great fun for young and old alike. The sand is incredibly fine. We have only ever had such soft sand between our fingers and under our feet in the desert. It’s fun to lie down in the sand, slide down or walk down. The view from the top is also fantastic. Not only do you have a wonderful view of the vast Adriatic Sea, but also of the eternally long sandy beach that stretches alongside the sand dune.

Tip: The view of the sea is particularly beautiful at sunset. It’s worth coming here at this time of day.

The beach at Rana e Hedhun is covered with the same fine sand. The stretch of coast closer to Shëngjin is home to several beach clubs. Here you will find plenty of sunbeds and umbrellas and all other beach services. After the last beach club, the beach is almost untouched. There is a long stretch to the dune and beyond, where you can enjoy solitude. Rana e Hedhun is pure nature: there are a few more small dunes along the coast. Large rocks rise up behind them. It really is a great, quiet, uncrowded beach. It is also perfect for families with children.

Getting to Rana e Hedhun

The sand dune can be reached from the direction of Shëngjin. Drive until you reach the last parking lot. From here, only a track in the sand leads to the dune. Make sure you leave your car here at the parking lot and don’t drive any further! We’ve even seen four-wheel drive vehicles get stuck in the sand. The rest of the way to the dune (approx. 650 m) is best covered on foot.

Excursions & Day trips from Shkoder

Shkoder is a springboard to the mountainous region of Albania. Day trips from the city take you to Lake Komani or the Shala River (Lumi i Shales). You can also spend a few days in the beautiful mountain village of Theth and go hiking in the Albanian Alps. If you like to get off the beaten track, we recommend visiting the castle of Lezhë or the lagoon of Patok. The beautiful viewpoint of Leqet e Hotit with a view of numerous serpentines is also located in the mountains northeast of Shkoder.

Shala River Tour

Enjoy a piece of Thailand in Albania! For a little longtail boat romance, crystal-clear turquoise water and a beach feeling, it’s worth taking a day trip to the Shala Valley. You can find tour operators on the internet where you can book a Shala River tour. These are usually group tours. You will be picked up from your hotel early in the morning and driven to the ferry at Komani Lake. The journey takes around 2 hours. The route is bumpy and the road is full of potholes, but the view of the river and the mountains is very beautiful.

The boat trip from the ferry takes around 1.5-2 hours, depending on the maximum speed of the boat. During this time, you can admire the beautiful landscape. The green water laps at the bow and you pass high cliffs and small, isolated settlements. This part of the journey was a true highlight to me that I will never forget.

After you leave the reservoir, the Shala River becomes narrower and shallower. The color of the water changes to turquoise and blue. You can already see the stones in the riverbed, it is so clear. At the end of the boat trip, you arrive at a small harbor where other longtail boats are already waiting. The boats, the high rocks and the crystal-clear water give the place a Thai flair.

Here you will find stretches of beach along the Shala River. Sunshades with loungers line the shore. There are restaurants and bars. You can even go zip-lining or kayaking. A small vacation paradise in the middle of the Albanian mountains.

Tip: The Shala River tour is also great for children. I saw numerous families spending the day there.

Although the water is quite cold (probably no more than 15 degrees), there are also many swimmers who let themselves be carried along by the gentle current of the river.

But let’s be honest and open about one thing: I did the tour for the scenery. Everything on the Shala River was full of visitors in high season. (If you come in low season, it’s much less busy here.) This part of the trip wasn’t particularly enjoyable, but it was worth it for the beautiful, unique surroundings.

Tip: The banks and riverbed are rocky. Take water shoes with you!

Tip: Alternatively, you can also book a Komani Lake tour with a local tour operator. There are various programs (speedboat tour, kayak tour, visit viewpoints, etc.) from which you can choose.

Trip to Theth

From Shkoder, the peaks of the Albanian Alps are just a stone’s throw away. So why not spend a few unforgettable days in the beautiful landscape?

Theth is a tiny little mountain village 76 km north-east of Shkoder. The drive takes about 2 hours on the freshly asphalted road. Even the way there is beautiful. There are numerous viewpoints where you can stop and enjoy the fantastic view of the mountains.

Although the village is so secluded, it offers many activities for active vacationers. You can hike to the waterfall or the Blue Eye of Theth, cross the Valbona Pass. A visit to the small church and the Blood Tower is also recommended.

You can camp, camp out or spend the night in a nice inn. Theth and the surrounding national park is a must-see when you are in Albania. You can find out more about this in our separate article „Theth in the Albanian Alps: hiking and sights“.

The easiest way to reach Theth is by rental car or your own car. There are also minibuses from Shkoder to Theth.