Albania Travel Guide – All You Need to Know

Accommodation in Albania – Prices for 2 people

• Arrival Corfu: Airbnb in the city centre (€45 per night)
• Ksamil: Villa Nertili (25€ incl. breakfast)
• Vlorë: Sea & Sand Hotel (50€ incl. breakfast)
• Tirana: Guest House Mary (42€ incl. breakfast)
• Tirana: Hotel Stela Centre (60€ incl. breakfast)
• Saranda: Isabela Apartments (32€ without breakfast)
• Departure Corfu: Mayor Mon Repos Palace (60€ with breakfast)

Camping in Albania

We have actually received many messages about camping in Albania. Although we haven’t camped in the country ourselves, we did some research. Camping is definitely possible in Albania. Even so-called „wild camping“ is still allowed, it’s probably just part of a „real adventure“. Cool, isn’t it?

There are not an infinite number of campsites in the country, but at least there are regular ones. They should even be quite well equipped. You can find an overview here: Campsites in Albania. When you enter the country with your campervan, you must be able to show your green insurance card, as well as your ID and vehicle documents.

Rental Cars

If you want to do a round trip through Albania, you should hire a suitable car. We booked a small car in Saranda online in advance (we got a larger Opel Astra). We paid €250 for a week including all the important insurances and services. If you rent your car in Tirana, it might be cheaper as you simply have more choice there.

With Rent from Locals*, however, we got the best offer with the all-round carefree package in advance. This means we don’t have to book any extra services on site. When booking, make sure that you choose „without excess“, unlimited free kilometres, glass and tyre protection and a fair fuel policy (full/full). Also take a close look at the amount of liability insurance specified.

LOOKING FOR A RENTAL CAR?

If you’re looking for a cheap hire car, we recommend the www.rentfromlocals.al* website. There you will find a huge selection and great prices. We have been using this platform to book a hire car for many years.

Driving in Albania

Driving in Albania is free of charge, there are no tolls. We thought in advance that the road conditions in the country would be much worse. When we got there, it wasn’t so bad most of the time, in fact it was really good. Most of the roads are tarmac and in a solid to very good condition. We only rarely had to drive on gravel tracks. The roads along the coast as far as Tirana were all in very good condition.

We were also able to drive on the roads inland towards Gjirokastra without any problems. The only thing that really annoyed us were the speed limits. We were often only allowed to drive at 40 km/h, sometimes 60 km/h. This meant we didn’t make as much progress as we had planned. Unfortunately, we had to cancel our detour to the Albanian Alps due to time constraints. What a pity, but we’ll make up for it.

The roads are not supposed to be so good in the mountains. It’s best to be prepared for longer car journeys here (Koman, Valbona, Theth and co.). There are a few „dual carriageways“ where you are even allowed to drive at 90 km/h or 110 km/h. These are marked in blue or green. These are marked blue or green. You also have to drive a little slower when crossing mountain passes.

You can easily plan 3 to 3.5 hours for 150 kilometres along the coast. The traffic in Tirana is a little more chaotic. You should already have some practice here and not let yourself get rattled. Albanians often drive very selfishly and suddenly squeeze into the smallest gap. In general, however, driving in Albania is unproblematic and quite safe.

You are allowed to drive a maximum of 40 km/h in urban areas, 80 km/h overland, 90 km/h on dual carriageways (blue) and 110 km/h on motorways (green). Only very few Albanians adhere to these limits, which is why you should stick to them anyway. Police checkpoints are frequently seen out of town. At petrol stations, simply tell the employee how much petrol you need. They will then do everything for you. All you have to do is pay at the window and you can continue on your way. You will always find petrol stations close together, unless you are away from civilisation. And be careful: goats, cows, donkeys, horses and dogs like to run around on the roads. So drive with foresight.

Albania holiday – Costs

Travelling to Albania is really very cheap. Whether it’s food, accommodation or sightseeing – you really get a lot for your euro in Albania. You can currently get around 100 Albanian lek for €1. We spent an average of €25 to €30 on accommodation in the low season (mostly with breakfast). The car cost us around €30 per day, restaurant visits often cost no more than €20 to €25 for two people with drinks, starter and main course.

Credit Cards in Albania

Can I use credit cards in Albania? You can use credit cards in Albania in larger hotels, international shops, travel agencies and at ATMs. However, in local shops, taxis and mid-range hotels, you can often only pay in cash. It is best to carry some cash in LEK with you, because withdrawals from ATMs can cost you €5-€6 each time.

It is best to carry some cash with you for your trip to Albania, however, the amount of cash you need depends on your travel plans. Let’s dig a little deeper and make sure you bring the right amount of money for your trip to Albania. So that, you do not have to worry while you are on your holiday.

You can also shop cheaply in the supermarket, the prices are comparable to ours. However, it’s much more worthwhile to go out to eat instead of cooking yourself. The only „most expensive“ things were actually the car and petrol. Out of a total of €772, we paid €218 for these alone. We spent the remaining €554 on food, drinks, sightseeing, shopping and accommodation. On average, we spent €60 per person per day (for everything).

The Highlights of Albania

Ksamil

Several sights and highlights await you in Albania, as the country really is very diverse. On the one hand, there is the beautiful coast in the south, the many national parks, the Albanian Alps in the far north, the capital Tirana and many other cities with history and tradition. In the south is the seaside resort of Ksamil, which is a real highlight in Albania in the low season.

In the high season, it is said to be like the Ballermann. We had the beaches and islands all to ourselves. The colours of the water… simply beautiful, isn’t it? By the way, we had a very good meal on the beach at Abiori Restaurant. Our best tips and highlights in Ksamil here.

Butrint National Park

Continue to Butrint National Park, where you can visit a really beautiful ancient harbour town from the 8th century BC. The park is surrounded by Lake Butrint and the Vivar Canal and is also home to 800 plant species, more than 240 bird species, 15 fish species and 39 mammal species.

The ruins of Butrint are an important building block of the past. The protected location in a lagoon attracted conquerors, travellers and those seeking relaxation even back then. Butrint is actually something like a second Troy, only on a smaller scale. We really enjoyed the tour. The entrance fee is 700 LEK per person (5.64€).

The Blue Eye – Syri i Kaltër

On the way to Gjirokastra, you will pass the famous Blue Eye. This almost 50 metre deep hole in a river magically attracts many visitors. And we didn’t want to miss it either. Although you can’t do much on site, the scenery is almost magical (even if there is a lot of rubbish there). Everything glows in green, blue and purple colours, very beautiful to look at. We hope that all the rubbish will be cleared away soon. This is the only way to protect this beautiful little paradise.

The historic town of Gjirokastra

Of course, a trip to Gjirokastra is not to be missed. This historic town is located in the south of the country and has a population of around 20,000. In 2005, the town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All around it, the mountains (Mali i Gjerë) rise to almost 2,000 metres.

The wide Drino valley looks almost surreal, as if from times long past. The stone houses here climb several hundred metres up the mountainside. There are many small restaurants and shops in the old town centre, as well as the castle of Gjirokastra at the top of the hill. Find out more here: Our best tips for Gjirokastra.

The Albanian Riviera

The Albanian Riviera is still one of the most unspoilt corners of the country. It stretches from the Llogara Pass to Saranda. Here, the Ceraunian Mountains separate the Riviera from the hilly hinterland. Many parts of the Albanian Riviera are almost inaccessible. You drive through many mountain villages, which look down on the strangely empty sea from a safe distance.

If a road does lead down to the sea (as in Dhërmi, for example), flat blocks, restaurants and hotels line up loosely. New concrete replaces old stone walls. The tourist centre of the Riviera is Himara. Popular beaches: Drymades Beach, Gjipe Beach, Livadhi Beach, Porto Palermo Beach and Qeparo. And don’t miss the bakery just after the Llogara Pass – Pastiçeri Barba Niko. They serve delicious coffee and freshly baked goods from the oven.

Gjipe Beach & Canyon

We discovered Gjipe Beach on Google Maps and simply drove there. It’s quite easy to get to the car park. It’s best to park your car right there. After that, you should walk the 30 minutes, as this gravel track is not for the faint-hearted or cars. We wouldn’t even have driven there in an off-road vehicle. But the walk is worth it, as you will pass a few bunkers on the way.

After the last bend, there is also a wonderful view of the bay and the canyon behind it. These colours were truly unique, the water shone in the most beautiful shades of blue. There was nobody on the beach but us, just two campers in the canyon. Of course, it looks completely different in summer. Then there are parasols, sunbeds and the small snack stands are open.

Llogara National Park

On the way from Seranda to Vlorë, you will inevitably have to cross the beautiful Llogara Pass and then find yourself in Llogara National Park. This pass is a mountain pass and part of the national road SH 8, which separates the Albanian Riviera from the hinterland. The route is really beautiful.

In good weather, you can see beautiful bays and beaches from afar as well as the highest peak of the Ceraunian Mountains (Maja e Cikës). In the national park itself, you can go on hikes, book accommodation and dine in restaurants. The southern slope of the pass is also a launch site for paragliders.

The city of a thousand windows – Berat

About 100 kilometres south of Tirana is the city of Berat. Together with Gjirokastra, the two towns are among the most popular and beautiful in the whole country. In 2008, the old town of Berat was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city consists of a new town and the three protected neighbourhoods. The fortress (Kalaia) towers high above with its many winding alleyways, small churches and mosques.

The small neighbourhood is quiet and the views from there are stunning. The city of Berat is nicknamed the „city of a thousand windows“. You can see why when you walk through the Mangalem neighbourhood. The houses are close together and all have large windows. Hence the city’s nickname.

The Osum Canyon

The Osum Gorge is something like the Grand Canyon of Albania. This gorge, cut deep into the landscape, is almost 13 kilometres long and between 2 and 30 metres wide. In some places, it is even 70 to 80 metres deep. A tour around the canyon takes around 6 hours.

You will be offered spectacular views time and time again. The narrow suspension bridge over the River Osum at the end of Corovoda is the starting point. This is followed by narrow paths along the gorge. You pass waterfalls, caves and broken stalactites. But be careful: there are probably still no railings.

Shkoder in northern Albania

The town of Shkodra is located in northern Albania between Lake Skutari and the rivers Buna, Drin and Kir. It is just 34 kilometres from the border with Montenegro. The city, which is 2400 years old, has a population of just under 143,000. Shkodra is also one of the cultural and traditional centres of northern Albania.

Here you will find mosques, churches, castles and palaces from times long past. Lake Shkodra is the largest lake in the Balkans and is 2/3 owned by Montenegro. Many tourists use Shkodra as a starting point for tours to the Albanian Alps and Lake Koman.

Lake Koman and ferry

The Koman reservoir is just under 2 hours away from Shkodra. You can only cross this lake by ferry. The journey is the reward, as the scenery is simply overwhelming. To the left and right are the steep rock faces, behind them the mighty mountain ranges of the Albanian Alps and in front of you the blue waters of the reservoir in the Drini Gorge.

The water has been dammed here since the 1980s to supply the north of the country with energy. The lake is 34 kilometres long and just 50 metres wide at its narrowest point. The deepest point is just under 96 metres.

Two car ferries run daily between Koman and Fierza. The journey takes around 2.5 hours and takes you past high rock faces and through narrow gorges. They are somehow reminiscent of Norwegian fjords. In the winter months, only the ferry runs from Fierza to Koman and back. From mid-April, the ferry also departs from Koman to Fierza and back.

So you could make a great day trip by ferry. You can buy your ticket here. The return journey only costs around €14 per person. We were unlucky with the weather, so we had to skip the planned tour to Lake Koman and the mountains for the time being.

The Albanian Alps

The Albanian Alps are one of the country’s absolute highlights. At the very top in the north of the country, you will find a unique and spectacular landscape with peaks rising more than 2,600 metres into the sky. There are valleys, mountain lakes and breathtaking viewpoints.

The hike from the Valbona Valley to the Theth Valley (15 kilometres | 6 to 8 hours) is particularly popular. Some of the roads here are still very bumpy and not as well developed as in other parts of the country. The highest mountain in the Albanian Alps is Jezerca at 2,692 metres. In the towns of Valbona and Theth you will also find guesthouses and guesthouses.

The long-distance hiking trail „Peaks of the Balkans“ is also very popular with hiking enthusiasts. It is 192 kilometres long and leads over 10 daily stages through Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro. This trail is not necessarily for beginners. The trail leads through developed areas but also through remote high alpine regions. The trail also leads through the national parks of Theth, Valbona Valley, Bieshkët e Nemuna, Lumi i Gashi and Prokletije. Great, we definitely want to do it.

Capital Tirana

A detour to the capital Tirana is also worthwhile. After almost a week travelling across the country, we found a bit of urban city life again in Tirana. You can actually find everything here: shopping malls, restaurants, cafés, shops, hotels and so on. We loved the relaxed vibe of the city, strolled through the streets and parks, drank damn good coffee, ate delicious chocolate cake and stayed in a chic, new hotel.

If you want to learn more about the socialist past, be sure to visit BunkArt 1 or BunkArt2. You can also drive from Tirana to the Bovilla Reservoir. This is a reservoir that is responsible for the capital’s drinking water supply. There is a small path up the mountain from where you have a great view. We have written a detailed article about this city: Albania’s Capital Tirana – Tips & Highlights.

Bunkers in the country

There are probably 170,000 to 200,000 bunkers in the country. They were built between 1972 and 1984, because Enver Hoxha wanted to protect the country from foreign troops. These bunkers were the most important military installations in the country and were built during the communist regime. You can still see them everywhere today. There were three different types of bunkers. The dictator’s aim was to create space for four Albanians in each bunker.

In total, 750,000 bunkers would have had to be built. To this day, nobody knows exactly how many there actually were. According to a report, only 173,371 bunkers had been built by the end of the main construction phase. Locals are not so keen on this, as the bunkers bear witness to the dictatorship. You are sure to see one or two during your trip. There are two large bunkers in Tirana that have been converted into museums (BunkArt 1 & BunkArt 2).

Food

The food in Albania is mixed. Here you will find influences from Turkey, Greece and Italy. No wonder, these countries are also right next door. The cuisine is Mediterranean and also has a lot in common with Kosovo, North Macedonia, Serbia and Montenegro. They cook with lots of vegetables, chicken, lamb, beef, goat and fish. There is a pizzeria and a taverna on every corner. We probably don’t need to explain what you get in a pizzeria. You can get typical Albanian cuisine in the tavernas. And of course you can also get burgers, fries, soups, salads and wraps.

Fasul bean soup with meat and vegetables is a favourite. It is usually served with buttermilk, tea, wine or raki. A typical main course is vine leaves stuffed with rice and meat, for example. These are also called „dollma“. Byrek“ is also a popular dish. These are dumplings with minced meat, sheep’s cheese or spinach. They are served with flatbread or various types of cheese. For dessert, you could eat „baklava“. You can find this puff pastry with syrup and sugar water in almost every bakery and restaurant.

Albania’s past & the dictatorship

To understand why the country of Albania is the way it is, you need to travel back in time. In 1944, the country was taken over by the communists. It was led by Enver Hoxha, who formed the Sigurimi secret police after the end of the war. This was his most powerful instrument of power for the next 40 years. Tens of thousands of people fell victim to this police force. The country was very poor at the time and the economy lay idle. There was also hardly any functioning infrastructure. Lack of education, epidemics and blood feuds were the order of the day.

The rule under the dictator Enver Hoxha was characterised by state violence, strict police persecution, disapproval and contempt for the constitution and human rights. It is no wonder that locals do not speak well of this period. Anyone who „stepped out of line“ and criticised the party and its works was imprisoned, forcibly relocated or simply executed. Travelling abroad was forbidden. In 1967, a total ban on religion was also imposed. Albania was thus the first atheist state in the world. Churches and mosques were closed or even demolished.

After the Second World War, Albania experienced what was probably the strictest communist dictatorship in the whole of Europe. The dictator completely isolated the country. Hoxha also ordered the construction of 750,000 bunkers. He wanted to be prepared in case the country was attacked by other powers. In the end, only just under 200,000 bunkers were built. After his death, his successor continued the policy until 1990. In March 1992, the first democratic elections after 45 years of dictatorship finally took place. With the victory of the Democratic Party, Albania was no longer isolated. Today, Albania is a member of NATO and has been an official candidate for membership of the European Union since 2014.

Conclusion

Albania is a great country. The people are warm, open and hospitable. We had a really good time, never felt uncomfortable and were able to experience wonderful moments. Travelling around the country was much easier than expected. The roads are in good condition, the costs are low and the highlights are really exciting.

For us, Albania is the perfect country to discover, for adventure and a cheaper holiday. In the low season you can have a damn good time here in the country (May, June, September & October). Probably also in high season, but then with lots of coaches, beachgoers and holidaymakers.

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